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Erstellt am 27.01.2006 - 18:02

Hello

Cost me $50 + shipping so will use your tips when it comes.
Saw your hinges on another thread but could not zoom in for a clear view. What did you do with the 5th road wheel exactly. I am trying to fit the Hen Long trans into my Bandai at the moment and finish detail on a tiger so have not got to the body work detail.

Cheers

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Erstellt am 27.01.2006 - 23:38

Laribe,

I'll get some really up-close pics of the hinges for you this weekend. I am also creating a list of changes and modifications with possible diagrams to post as well. These will include some trial and error accidents to avoid, so read through them carefully before you make the same mistakes I did!

BTW, I will be recieving a King Tiger next week, so I hope to have this all done before then. When it arrives, it will have my attention for a while!

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Erstellt am 28.01.2006 - 08:23

Hello

Thank you for the help you have given me on this. I have an early KT with the single motor it is very robust but needs as much maintenance as a real one. I think the new ones have improved no end.
With your modeling skill I think you would find the Hen Long panther a challenge to work on.
I have had no trouble running my HL panther and tiger and they are easy to repair and modify.

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Erstellt am 28.01.2006 - 19:11

I hope the King Tiger is worth the wait. It has been modified with a lathe motor and should run slower with more power than stock. I'm already thinking of upgrading the track, gearboxes and idler assembly. And it isn't even here yet!

The next post contains the mods and pictures of the hinges. Oh, and the new ambush scheme as well!

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Erstellt am 28.01.2006 - 19:15

For the roadwheel work, it would be a good idea to actually see if yours has problems and if it really creates that much tension on the track. The pins that hold the roadwheels on are very tight, so you are taking risks trying to remove them! On mine, both of the number 5 roadwheels on each side were about a quarter of an inch lower than the rest of the roadwheels. They also angled out away from the center guides making the center guides catch on them instead of guiding through them. I'm sure the lowering was done on purpose by the designer to aid in pivot steering the tank, but it was poorly executed.

NOTE: When I first tried to fix this, I ended up snapping one side off! I then had to drill, pin, and epoxy that side. On the other side, the pin came out before the axle broke, so I got lucky. I then removed material on the top side of the axle, so it would sit right. The wheels wobble but, they all seem to wobble anyway, so big deal.

You will most likely want to check the gearbox. It is filled with nasty, stinky grease, so I cleaned it and checked all gears, and lubed it with plastic compatible grease. I then found places where the drive gears scrape both the lower hull mounting lugs, as well as the hull sides.

NOTE: I removed the mounting lugs, but you may want to remove just enough material from them to let the gears clear. I made a system that lets the front slope slide into a lip, then secured the top with the rear mounting screw.

I almost destroyed the main gun trying to "fix" it. It is glued together crooked and the mantle sits crooked in the turret. There are two screws under the recoil box in front of the mantle. This was a trick, because the whole assembly was glued together, anyway! This meant there was no way to remove the gun from the upper turret half. I ended up cutting the upper turret half under the mantle, and then gluing this piece to the lower half. In this configuration, the whole gun assembly comes out of the mount with the cannon in the lowered possition. If it is very hard to remove, simply scrape material from the backside of the mantle top. In the pictures(*will post these pics on the new forum*) you will see white plastic on the left hand side cannon mount of the lower turret half. You may not need this as I incorrectly thought removing material on that side would straighten the mantle. After performing the procedure below, I found this was not needed and replaced it.

NOTE: I managed to pry the recoil box apart up to the tube sleave. I then cut where the box meets the sleave, leaving the tube, which goes all the way through, intact and the sleave glued to the tube. This allowed me to straighten up the mantle without destroying the sleave or the gun tube. To get the gun down to level, I simply removed the spring where the breach is supposed to be and trimmed it until the gun lowered to level.

Hinge detail pics:




Ambush Panzer IV:


[Dieser Beitrag wurde am 29.01.2006 - 01:27 von CapnCrunch43 aktualisiert]

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Erstellt am 29.01.2006 - 09:40

The Bandai gearboxes are Trash.Better you buy
Conrad 12 Volt Gearbboxmotors from the RB-35 series.
They cost only 25 euro and works exellent without
Noises.Here you can make a look at wontis homepage.
http://www.wonti.de/Modellbau_Hummel_Bau.html
For more information call me .

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Erstellt am 29.01.2006 - 11:28

CapnCrunch43

Thank you for the trouble you have taken for this info and the pictures are 1st class. Good luck with the KT

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Erstellt am 29.01.2006 - 12:52

Tamiya

Thank you for the link it is very impressive. I got lost on the conrad site but will try again.

In the Bandai section one has fitted a HL gearbox and as I have a panther for spares I thought I may go that way, but looking at the Hummel build I will look into that way.

cheers

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Erstellt am 01.02.2006 - 09:53

The Heng long Gearbox are better then the Bandai.But
only with Metalgears and for the Money for the Tuninggears you can get the Conradgearbox.I can get
the Gearboxes for you if you have Paypal.Where did you come from?

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Erstellt am 01.02.2006 - 18:32

@Laribe,

The link to the 5 pages of the motors with gearboxes that Conrad sell is here:

Motors with gearboxes at Conrad

The RB-35 motors are on pp 3 and 4. I can't remember which one was recommended on the forum. Though a search for RB35/RB-35 will probably turn up the relevant pages.

All the best,

Nige